Warkit! (or garb I plan on making)

[Travellar]

Okay, tunics and either hose or trousers are pretty basic gear just for not runnign around naked. What I'm really interested in feedback on are some of my ideas for warkit. Basicly, everything not armor nor weapons, which is essential for going to war in.

Cape:
I've actually got two furry pieces of material around the house right now. One is the wolf-fur like material I intend for something special, the other is a black 50x60" throw. The throw seems to be just the right size for use as a cape, especially if I can find or make a brooch for it. If that fits right, I may make one of the wolf fur instead. I'm also considering a more Roman-style fitting where the weight of the cape is to offset the weight on my breastplate. As I don't have, and don't plan on getting a breastplate, I'm going with the brooch idea.

War-harness:
Where would any barbarian be without a leather harness over his torso? I picked up a 3" leather toolbelt which definately looks the part, but it was about 20 bucks. I figure with two more, I can throw one over each shoulder kinda like a backwards pair of suspenders for the waist level belt. One more cross piece just below the shoulderblades and it would look good. Trouble is, this is going to be a $60-$80 piece of kit. The upside though is I'll start looking more barbaric than Conan! Okay, maybe that's a stretch.

Banner pole:
My time running around last weekend as the offical Hawk Clan Banner holder has already influenced me.
I want my own war-banner! Even if it takes me a while in-game to earn one, a banner pole to carry them into battle while leaving my hands free for other tasks would be :flame: FREAKING COOL! :flame: That said, I'm planning a basic T shaped pole, with the crossbar at the top for holding the banner. Two small pieces on the above-mentioned war-harness will serve to hold the banner pole in place, when it's not in-hand. If I leave the cape a little loose in the back, it won't even be in the way.

So, any advice? or other ideas what I need to terrorize people as a Barbarian?

*edit* all done tailoring for tonight. I'm working on my tunic, but started making simple mistakes that indicate I should stop sewing. While the first one was easy to correct, and the next two actually look better than if I'd done them right, I'm not counting on any more lucky breaks.

[Plunder Down-Under]

Skin a bear and wear its pelt complete with head and paws.

That would be cool

[Talen]

Just take the Dec. 14th comic as fair warning on capes. (Or a certain Pixar movie about superheroes).

That one piece can be a cape...or instead, probably the makings for a mantle + leggings. Faux-fur about the lower legs can hide all kinds of shoes and such.

[Travellar]

Hmm, I like the fur trim idea around the ankles, it'll keep me warm and allow me to keep playing in my boots.

Anyhow, the Tunic is now done, although I'm about to go adda little decorative embroidery around some of the hems.

The leggings were a partial disaster the other day, but since the tunic goes to mid-thigh I think I could even get away with wearing jeans, provided they're of an appropriate color. (RIT to the rescue if that's hard to come by.)

*edit* Tunic done, trousers done, flagstaff done, sword maybe done...

It's progress!

[Travellar]

I think I'll make an axe...

*edit*
I made an axe!
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-10/425235/axe.jpg
I LIKE my new axe.

[Talen]

I like, that one looks like it turned out better than the sword did. :)

Hopefully, there's enough open-cell foam on the top.

[Travellar]

3" block of open core foam at the top and bottom. I used 2" wide foam pipe tape to tape either piece in place, so there's 2" still exposed. Also, the tips of the PCV core are 1 1/2-2" below the ends of the closed cell foam, which maens it's 4 1/2 top 5" of just foam at either end. The thickest pipe foam I could find only had a 1/2" wall, so I wrapped rings of the 1/8" pipe foam around that too, giving me a minimum padding thickness of 5/8". Up around the axehead it's thicker, partly because I had to cover the cap on the PCV, partly for aestetic purposes, but mostly because I used the same tape to hold the open core axe-head on. My first attempt at the axehead curved alot more at the bottom, but turned out to be quite flimsy. No good making the entire head of open core foam if the simple act of swinging the axe causes it to bend around behind it. So I made a second axe head, with much less taper, and used alot more closed cell foam tape along it's sides to stiffen it up. the foam padding around the shaft at the axe head is 7/8" thick.

Also, I built a second sword the day after I finished the first one. I forgot to put the pic up, but it looks much better. the only drawback is that it's quite heavy.

[Seolta]

have you taped over the open-cell foam yet? The ax doesn't look quite finished, in the picture...

[Travellar]

not yet, and I wasn't really planning to. (is that a requirement I missed?) The was taken before certain cosmetic aspects of finishing the axe, because I wanted to show how it's made.

[Seolta]

not yet, and I wasn't really planning to. (is that a requirement I missed?) The was taken before certain cosmetic aspects of finishing the axe, because I wanted to show how it's made.


It is for SOLAR, don't know about the game you're playing...and as far as making the weapon last longer it's a must. Otherwise the damp gets in and you get mold and mildew and ickiness, and it retains dirt like nobody's business.

[Travellar]

Thanks, I'll tape it up then. As much fun as these are to make, I'd like to keep them around for a while. In fact, I had so much fun making that one, I decided to make a long axe as well! of course, I also decided to get a little ornate on the boffer tip.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-10/425235/boffertip.jpg

I think it looks pretty good, especially considering it's just foam. of course, I now need to figure out how to seal it. I'm thinking I should use latex.

[Death Dragon2]

Is it bad that I read the title as "Wark!!!" and thought of our giant-feathered friends?
http://ffxi.allakhazam.com/images/news/Chocobos.jpg

[sableagle]

Yes. Yes it is.

[Duncan]

I'd caution you a little in getting too crazy making weapons. Miscellaneous props and clothing are one thing. Pretty much no matter what you make in that department people are going to let you use it. But it is very easy with your first couple of weapons to get them failed at inspection for something you missed or did a bit different. I'd hate for you to pour a ton of time and resources into making some great looking weapons until to find out that they are good for nothing other than decoration because of some uncorrectable flaw.

Covering open cell foam with latex is problematic in two respects. The first is the expense in buying the liquid latex and the difficulty in getting it applied in some fashion to come out looking right. The other reason is latex allegies. If you attend enough events you are going to come across somebody who will claim, rightly or wrongly, that if you touch them with that weapon they are going to die. This means you need to find some way to seal the latex. This adds more expense, more difficulty, and often end up with a weapon that has the consistency of modeling clay if you aren't careful.

One possible cheat you can use to get around the latex problems is to go with silicone instead. I know of some people who have made various open cell props and covered them with silicone sealer that you find in caulking tubes. It is still a pain to work with and make look right, but it is something to consider.

[Seolta]

The other reason is latex allegies. If you attend enough events you are going to come across somebody who will claim, rightly or wrongly, that if you touch them with that weapon they are going to die. This means you need to find some way to seal the latex. This adds more expense, more difficulty, and often end up with a weapon that has the consistency of modeling clay if you aren't careful.


This is why we don't use latex weapons in SOLAR. I'd recommend covering with gaff tape, which you can then seal with spray-on scotchgard(helps make it more weather-resistant) and paint with just about anything...my personal favorite being the acrylic craft paints you can buy for $0.30 and up in the little squirt-bottles...it's durable, comes pre-thinned so it covers nicely without using up a lot of it or making the weapon too stiff, and it comes in oodles of colors, including metallics(though the metallic ones tend to cost a bit more).

[CptCalico]

This is so alien....here in Norway, latex weapons are the norm. I've yet to encounter anyone who can't play because of an allergy, and I presume that if there are they'll ask for a role that don't get in the way of the weaponry.

[Duncan]

Most of the commercially produced latex weapons are sealed in some fashion and not raw latex on the outside. But in all honesty, I may be overstating the latex allergy angle. In NERO, latex weapons are still fairly exotic, and there is a certain predjudice against them on a number of grounds. If you use a commercially produced weapon from one of the list of approved vendors then your weapon is likely to pass. However, if your weapon is some kind of home made design, it is easily for the overly dramatic participants to try to make a scene about it.

The standard weapon construction rules in the rulebook do not take into account using latex as a component, and so using it takes you into the fuzzy world of subjectivity. You have to submit the weapon to a local weapon marshal and have them judge whether or not it is safe. It is a crap shoot if you haven't worked it out with them beforehand.

The book standard covering that is universally accepted is duct tape, which I think everyone understands. Another option you run across is gaff tape, which has already been mentioned. The advantage is that gaff tape can be colored and decorated more easily than duct tape. The disadvantages are that it is a bit more expensive, is heavier, and has a tendency to get really crappy when wet unless properly treated.

A third choice some people take is kite tape, which is a special thin kind of duct tape used in kite construction. It is as durable as duct tape but much lighter. Many people who are making super high performance ultra-light weapons use this. The disadvantages are that it can be hard to find, is much more expensive, and doesn't wear as well as duct tape or gaff tape. If it get wet or even exposed to humidity to tends to crinkle up into an alligator skin texture. It also tends to harder and get brittle over time.

One other option is to create some kind of cloth sock. Stretch interlock knits can be used to cover odd and curved shapes. Rip stop nylon is used a lot as well because of it's durability and lightness. Depending on the material used you get various degrees of durability, attractiveness or weight, but you do have to have a certain amount of sewing skill.

[Travellar]

the sewing skill I've got.

so far, I'm not aware of any possible flaws in my work that are uncorrectable. worst case scenario is to strip the offending parts off and rebuild them. if ripstop nylon is considered an acceptable substitute, than that's probrably the way I ought to go for most of the weapons.

As for the wolf's head, it's on a part of the weapon I don't strike with, and can easily enough be reloacted to a non-striking portion. I can paint it, but doing a cover for it would take a bit more skill than I think I actually have. I'll probrably spend some time this week making a second wolf head, and trying various sealing means. I believe standard paint would qualify to seal any laytex I feel the need to use.

Silicone sounds like a great idea. not sure how I'll pull that off, but you seriously underestimate me if there's any doubt I can. All I'll really need it for is that one small bit anyhow. Since the area's so small, rubber cement may work. see any potential problems with that?

as for passing inspection, that's part of the reason I'm still making weapons. although there is some irony in that I believe the axes I do not have (yet) in game have a better chance of passing than the sword that I do. I'd get in touch with someone about buying one (in game), but it doesn't look like they're approving new members yet.:(

[Duncan]

I spoke to the guy last night about your account. The problem we have with the message board is that it's security isn't well set up. There are issues with getting it upgraded which I won't get into. But as things stand now the board get literally dozens of spam bot account signups every day. This means the guy in charge of approving accounts has no way of going through them individually to see which ones are real or not. He pretty much relies on the process of people clueing him in when new people sign up. It is a serious problem we have that the people in charge haven't come up with an adequate solution for yet.

[Travellar]

Spam Poisen (http://english-96370591673.spampoison.com/)
it's been really effective cleaning up the Inktank forums. they may want to look into that.

[Talen]

1) The chocobo flock above reminds me of the one I hatched on Ragnarok server in FFXI. He's a 1st-generation blue, not very well trained but I was a happy camper when his adult colors came in. Wark, indeed. :)

2) Latex over open foam may not breathe very well. It's supposed to be squishy- which is why thrusting tips have holes poked into them. If the foam doesn't "breathe", it doesn't pad things too well.

[sableagle]

They let you use striking tips? You can do stabby attacks? Oh wow ... I have so missed being able to skewer the silly bastards who try to do 360 chopping attacks.

*ahem*

My longbow's sealed with polystyrene cement, as used for Airfix 1:40 and 1:72 plastic model aircraft. That's not a LARP weapon, though. That's Tudor reenactment. LARP people get a bit nervous around double-figure draw-strains.

[Travellar]

yep, you can go stabby stabby in NERO. Duncan commented after the last meet on just what an interesting combat technique I'd developed to that effect.

If I weren't enchanted with just how much fun it could be to go down the path of an axe wielding maniac, I'd probrably take up a shield and spear. then I could fight alongside others with shields and spears, and we could all go stabby stabby together! :dgrin: Flanks might be a little weak, but man, a good old fashioned phalanx could be FUN!

[sableagle]

You need oval bullhide shields, and spears that'll rattle on them. Advance a step at a time, in cynch, rattling your spears on your shields, then all charge together and yell ZULUuUuUuUuUuUuUuU!

Don't mess with their women. See first photo! (http://www.humnet.ucla.edu/aflang/zulu/culture.html)

[Talen]

They let you use striking tips? You can do stabby attacks? Oh wow ... I have so missed being able to skewer the silly bastards who try to do 360 chopping attacks.

*ahem*

My longbow's sealed with polystyrene cement, as used for Airfix 1:40 and 1:72 plastic model aircraft. That's not a LARP weapon, though. That's Tudor reenactment. LARP people get a bit nervous around double-figure draw-strains.

Most NERO style games, 360 swings are an auto-fail for safety and IQ checks.

And double figures isn't too bad, some LARPs are OK with modded arrows and 25lb or less. Go much further and yeah, you get a little nervous with that much kinetic energy, even with padded arrows...

And my life at many LARPs has been demonstrating that the point works as well as the edge. Yay, stabbity death! :eek:

[Talen]

yep, you can go stabby stabby in NERO. Duncan commented after the last meet on just what an interesting combat technique I'd developed to that effect.

If I weren't enchanted with just how much fun it could be to go down the path of an axe wielding maniac, I'd probrably take up a shield and spear. then I could fight alongside others with shields and spears, and we could all go stabby stabby together! :dgrin: Flanks might be a little weak, but man, a good old fashioned phalanx could be FUN!

That's the joy of being a warrior. You can learn multiple weapons. You SHOULD learn multiple weapons. Axes are good. Hammers and maces for those annoying skeletal things that don't chop so good. Polearms for those line battles where you can gut things behind your shield-brothers!

(One word: Halberd. Pointy AND choppy AND big.)

[Travellar]

I'm not playing a warrior, I've chosen Templar. almost as good as a warrior, but just might decide it's better if you fight without your sword. Or if your buddy stays right where he is for a while. Or that it'd be good for your shield to explode in a shower of splinters.

[Travellar]

In other news...
YAY! I've just finished the ripstop sheath for my sword, and it looks pretty decent. (there's one hem I'm not thrilled with, but I'll survive.)

I've got the material cut for most of the first axe, and will be sewing it shortly!

Even better yet, I've just finished my sandwich and feel much better now!

[Talen]

I'm not playing a warrior, I've chosen Templar. almost as good as a warrior, but just might decide it's better if you fight without your sword. Or if your buddy stays right where he is for a while. Or that it'd be good for your shield to explode in a shower of splinters.

Earth templars work A-OK...not only do you get to beat on people and break stuff, but you can get them back up afterwards if you found out they didn't deserve it.

Usually, the ones that didn't are your buddies, but you never know...and that actually is another case for a poleaxe. You can "backpack" someone else and still reach over to give somebody a good thwackin'. :)

[Travellar]

*owie!*
well, I've just finished the last bit of ripstop covering for my weapons. Both axes and my Longsword should now pass saftey inspection with no problems. and the more tedious bits of work trying to get everything just right on my short axe left me bent over it for a while, and now my back's quite sore.

so...

how do you deal with the long periods of time between gatherings? I'm bored.

[Talen]

Forums. Forums are a good start.

If your game has a "town paper", start reading up on any archived issues. Knowledge is power!

[Seolta]

packet party!

[Travellar]

If I don't come up with another distraction soon, I'm gonna be monogramming spell packets. :troops:

Then I shall TAKE OVER THE WORLD!

[wolfie]

That is really cool, here is the one I made for SCA combat

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b285/talrath2002/gretel-resize.jpg


Now the rules of our respective games are vastly different so here is a breakdown of the construction:

The head is made of a super dense foam with two pieces of 12oz leather taped on to the end of it as a klacker (basically it makes the weapon hit harder and weigh almost nothing)

The foam is glued to the haft with B3000 epoxy with a piece of upholstery weight leather added to stabilize it.

This is all taped up with strapping tape and shiny duct tape, the red denotes the striking edge.

The haft is made from rattan and is wrapped in strapping tape due to a split I put in it after a particularly vigorous fight.

And her name is Gretel :D


Bonus points if you can find the inspiration for this weapon :p

[Crazeyal]

I was gonna play Grendel at a Nero event once upon a time. The weapon I made, which AMAZINGLY passed inspection.. was an uprooted tree. I wasn't allowed to use "the branches" as a thrusting tip, but there was so much material there that they counted it as a sheild.

Fun weapon, MURDER on the shoulders to use... Swung like an axe or great club.

Never DID get to use it outside of practice... Things kind of deteriorated when Ashbury moved out of Brooklyn.:(

[Travellar]

Bonus points if you can find the inspiration for this weapon :p

I'm looking at your avatar.

Maybe I ought to add some can-opener-points to the back of my axeheads...

[Travellar]

BOOTS!
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-10/425235/Boot.JPG
Okay, more like leggings/boot covers, but they still look really nice. Actually, I've still gotta sew the reinforcing straps onto the left one, and get the eyelets into it.

I designed them so the laces ran up the inside of the calf, instead of the more traditional front of the leg. This way, when I sit down to put them on, the laces are right there on top when I put my foot up across the other knee. They were actually suprisingly easy to make, and I wasted very little material on them. I'd be finishing the left leg now, but I've gotta run and get ready for class. Maybe when I get back...

*edit* my feet shall not be cold!

[Travellar]

WOOHOO!
I didn't make it myself, but my chainmail arrived today!
YAY! It's HERE!
This stuff weighs at least 30 to 40 pounds, maybe more! The really odd part is, I took it off like ten minutes ago, and am still feeling the weight! Now I've gotta go make a T-tunic with some padded shoulders to keep the chain from digging into my skin...

YAY! Bodyarmor!

[Plunder Down-Under]

Think of it as training! Wearing heavy clothes will make you faster when you take it!

[CptCalico]

WOOHOO!
I didn't make it myself, but my chainmail arrived today!
YAY! It's HERE!
This stuff weighs at least 30 to 40 pounds, maybe more! The really odd part is, I took it off like ten minutes ago, and am still feeling the weight! Now I've gotta go make a T-tunic with some padded shoulders to keep the chain from digging into my skin...

YAY! Bodyarmor!

Way cool! What did you have to pay?

[Travellar]

about $120-130 for the chainmail, and $50 for the shipping. I thought the shipping costs a bit high, untill I tried to pick the box up on my doorstep. (okay, I succeeded in picking the box up, but was still a bit suprized)

[sableagle]

I tried on one of the C11 reenactment lot's chainmail shirts once. It didn't have a coif and already weighed over 80lb. Looked like a bathrobe.

[CptCalico]

about $120-130 for the chainmail, and $50 for the shipping. I thought the shipping costs a bit high, untill I tried to pick the box up on my doorstep. (okay, I succeeded in picking the box up, but was still a bit suprized)

...shipped inside the us? the mail itself seems dead cheap.

[wolfie]

Hehe depending on how bored you get you could have gotten it cheaper, 12# fencing wire, 2 pliers, 1 pair of cutters, and lots and lots of free time :dgrin:

[sableagle]

You need a former. You can't get nice, even links with just the pliers.

You can, however, get nice even links with 1mm tying wire using a screwdriver as the former. Of course you need four times as many of them, but for something like a bikini it's good to have the extra flex and slink, and it does weight half what 2mm/10mm would.

You can also use the 2mm fencing wire as a former for 0.4mm copper, brass and silver-plated jewellery wire and make chain mail so fine it flows like silk, with patterns in it like embroidery. Once you realise how lovely it feels running over your fingers or your lips, though, it gets a bit hard to concentrate on finishing it.

[wolfie]

Thanks sableeagle, I forgot about that part, .25 in dowel or metal bar and a drill with a good chuck on it will take care of that

[Travellar]

The one element I lack is the "lots and lots of free time". Okay, so I might have it, but there are other things to spend that time on than making chainmail.

For example, today I made myself a second tunic. The specific reason for making it was the pads I placed at the tops and back of the shoulders. I'm wearing it now, with the chailmail on top of it. While it's great for smoothing out the weight on the shoulders, I'm going to need to add some padding to the front. Without it, the armor tends to slide a bit further back, and pull across my throat. I've got a clean sock, folded in half, and tucked under the front of the neckline. This is keeping the armor from sliding back. (mostly)

[wolfie]

I feel you on padding, I need to make a gambeson that has shoulder, elbow, and forearm padding in it. The difficult part is the requirements in my game require the elbows to be 1/4 in closed cell foam.

[Travellar]

what's a gambesom?

And 1/4" closed cell foam? geez, what are you makeing? Plate mail? Pipetape may be your best friend there.

[wolfie]

A Gambeson is a padded shirt or jacket worn under armor, and the closed cell is because I play SCA not LARP. We use rattan as our base weapon material. Yes I do have a suit of plate armor, see the chimeracon thread in conventions for a pic. The white cloth sticking out from the tunic is my current gambeson, it is a quilt that was cut into a tunic. The only thing missing from my armor in that picture is my spaulders.

I did look into doing larp once, but they don't allow booze. Mead is some gooooood stuff.

[Talen]

Most US boffer LARPs don't allow alcohol for safety reasons- after all, you're not just swinging at the guys and gals in marshal-approved armor, but frequently everyone's "fair game", and the time/area of "fighting allowed" is a lot bigger.

Plus in our case, it's a Scouting group and at a Scout camp- and they're dry. A lot of US LARPs use Scout camps, so between safety and being nice to the existing site...no booze.

(European LARPs tend to be a lot more mellow about it, which means you'd have a helluva fun vacation option.)

[Talen]

The one element I lack is the "lots and lots of free time". Okay, so I might have it, but there are other things to spend that time on than making chainmail.

For chainmail, I went with Ringmesh- it's light and stainless steel, and they do pieces as well as full shirts/leggings/coifs. You can find the odd Ebay offering + their own site. I'm in the "more money than time" camp too.

[wolfie]

Now ya see, that is a totally understandable reason for the prohibition. In the SCA you are not allowed to fight while visibly drunk (yes that is a LOT of leeway but I have personally never heard of anyone being injured because they or someone else was impaired). Personally if I intend to fight, I don't even touch a drop the night before, being hung over and beaten about the head while wearing a bell is NOT fun.

[Travellar]

okay, I'm gonna need to make another sword, to match the one penciled in for the next Geebas cartoon.

[Travellar]

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-10/425235/Firepaw.jpg
:skull: Okay, it's not a decent picture, but most of my costume shows up, and it's all done now! All that's left is to raid and pillage.

(keeping in mind rule number one... (http://www.schlockmercenary.com/d/20040722.html))

[Travellar]

okay, now I need a bit of help.

I don't want my head to be cold. I need to put something on my head. (no, not the cat) I'm drawing a creative blank. Can anyone offer suggestions or sketches for a hat/helmet/hood/non-cat-item to put on my head, and keep it warm?

Keeping in mind that I'll be playing a barbarian, so the more primitive yet terrifying, the better.

[Seolta]

Maybe something along Mongolian (http://www.wildthingsfur.com/proddetail.asp?prod=hat11) lines, then?

[sableagle]

Quite fitting. You could also go with the Arab / Saracen type headgear, made out of something furry and probably tied with "cat gut" string, with or without beads, which may or may not happen to be the shape, size and colours of defeated enemies' teeth.

With thin fabric as a sunscreen, you can roll one (tasselled) end back on itself, drape the rest down your back, draw the roll over your head, wrap it abck around your temples and knot it behind your head, and if you want your face covered you bring one corner over your shoulder, across your nose and up to your opposite ear and tuck it in there.

I can't give you a historical example of fur being worn that way, but it probably could be, or you could wear linen that way with one edge of the fur trapped in the roll, and only knot the linen and only use the linen over your face, leaving the fur hanging freely.

[Travellar]

BEHOLD!
My ridiculously warm hat.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-10/425235/Hat.JPG

[sableagle]

Hyawatha variation on my above: same but the other way out so the fur's on the inside where the wind can't blow through it and spoil its insulating properties. It won't look as good and it might tickle but it'll be warm. {Alt. text: It won't look as good but it'll be warm and it might tickle.}

[Travellar]

My wargear help up wonderfully over the wekend.

The boots are caked in mud, but need stirrups,
The mantle has large pink spoltches from worn-off warpaint,
the brooch of the cloak shattered, but I stayed very nice and toasty. (the pin was still in place)
All items were close at hand on my belt, although the pegs for my weapons slipped frequently and will need some re-work
And the Ridiculously Warm Hat had only two problems. 1) it wiped the warpaint from my forehaed (it's furry inside as well as out), and 2) there were several threats to steal it.

If these items survive thier current adventure through the washing machine, I'll be ecstatic. The boots made me quite happy because in adition to performing well, they recieved much positive attention.

[Talen]

Just remember- brush out the furry matted bits, which should get some of the paint out. Then cold/cold wash them- and you may wanna do each piece separately that has facepaint in it to prevent stainage.

[Travellar]

uh, too late.

I washed all the fur pieces of my garb together, on warm/cold. I overestimated the amount it would fill the machine to, so there was plenty of extra water to absorb the mud. Not sure what effects drying might have, I opted for the air dry setting on my dryer.

A small amount of red makeup remains in the mantle, noticable only because I know where to look. The cloak is completely clean, and only the bottom edges of the boots have any traces of the mud that was thoroughly ground into them.